A wealth of fruity notes
Already abundant last year, fruit largely prevailed in this 15th event. Whether at the core of brands’ narrative or mixed with floral or woody notes, they were everywhere to be smelt. Booths resolutely reflected this colourful trend, as could be seen with the Fugazzi Market, packed throughout the show.
Exotic fruits were particularly in the spotlight: guava, pineapple, passion fruit, mango… Born To Stand Out was no exception: the new range of extracts drew in the crowds, eager to discover Black Mango or Black Guava. Following the example of Oud Maracuja by Maison Crivelli, exotic oud-fruit chords are now extremely successful. There were also many strawberry, banana, peach, and blackcurrant notes – not to mention cherry notes, still trendy this year.
This trend mainly originates from perfume companies’ innovations: Jungle Essence by Mane, Firgood and SFE extractions by dsm-firmenich, or the Symtrap range by Symrise make it possible to carve fruity notes with a more natural and realistic effect. The success of fruit is also due to Gen Z’s craving for niche perfumes – this generation is brands’ main target – and to the growing strength of the US market, very fond of this type of products. Generally speaking, this enthusiasm also owes to the bright charm of fruit, because it sends an optimistic message in times of crisis.
New taste territories
Esxence 2025 was also filled with scents that were more tasty than sweet, which shows how the cult of food on Instagram has infused niche perfumes. Nuts (hazelnut, pistachio, almond…) have been on a roll for three years. Love of food is also asserted with creamy effects, such as with warm milk. Not to mention hyper trendy coffee and cocoa notes, used to renew amber chords. Examples include: Néroli Hasbaya by Atelier Materi, where orange blossom is outlined with pistachio and almond, Cacao Pimento and Cacao Timur by La Closerie des Parfums, Tonka Latte by Dusita (vanilla, tonka bean, milky and honeyed notes), Milk & Matcha by Obvious, with green, milky notes intertwined with orange blossom, or Passion Bliss by Alexandre J (passion fruit, hot milk). On a saltier note, Versatile showcased La Foncedalle, with “beer, weed, and roasted chicken” chords.
Vanilla, a new comforting ingredient widely seen for the past two years, has also evolved. It has left the gourmand world, to which it was often confined, to reveal itself woody and spicy. Vanilla pod marries cedar and incense and is topped with spices in Crème Ébène by Nicolaï. Atelier Materi created a similar world, with dark, leathery, spicy vanilla to be discovered this spring. In the same vein, brands have revisited amber chords with tense effects, playing with vertical, modern notes, as could be seen with 403 Myrrh Shadow by Bon Parfumeur, where akigalawood, Quentin Bisch’s flagship ingredient, boosts a base of balms brightened with Timut pepper.
Carved facets to renew brands’ narratives
Spicy notes were widely represented at the show. Pink peppercorn, saffron and Timut pepper are almost ubiquitous, whatever the olfactory range. These bursting, rising notes embody today’s race for intensity in niche perfumes. Just like ambery woody notes, which offer enhanced projection, these spices diffuse the trail immediately, as early as the top notes. In addition, they blend perfectly well with trendy woody notes, including incense, cedar and ambroxan.
Green facets bring a new breath of fresh air, joining the ongoing quest for naturalness. Blackcurrant, tomato leaf and green pepper extract infuse a joyous, modern, plant touch into floral and woody chords, as could be seen with Love is Coming by The Different Company, and Chromodoro by Astrophil & Stella.
Still popular, musks also reveal themselves faceted and crafted with texture and light games. For Jacques Fath, the perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault imagined Musc Couture. A musk with clean, iridescent and fruity tones designed as a both fluid, sophisticated haute couture dress. Oh Top developed Musc D’Hiver, fluctuating between mint’s and pink peppercorn’s biting coldness and the wrapping warmth of musk, woody effects.
Lastly, oud wood is also completely renewed, often unveiled in a Western interpretation. This trend was already visible at the TFWA 2024 show. Agarwood now blends with clean, floral or fruity facets, for example in Oud Nebula by The Harmonist or Oud Cherry by Born To Stand Out. This more sanitized version brings both depth and an animal touch to fragrances.
Overall, niche perfumes are becoming more accessible, with more feel-good, comforting notes. They cultivate a readable style, contributing to the public’s quest for intensity, and therefore encouraging more and more brands to offer extracts. The latter also broaden their ranges with body products (hair mists, hand or body creams…), renewing the perfuming gesture. Ultimately, this year, a greater number of brands from South Korea, Vietnam, China, and Japan attended the show, demonstrating the rising interest of Asia in niche perfumes.
