Whether you are growing rose of Sharon, hardy, or tropical hibiscus, their showy flowers are superb for adding bright ornamental value to the garden, with a long flowering season over the summer months.
And because hibiscus plants propagate readily, multiplying these beauties is easy!
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All three garden types are propagated in the same manner, with the best chances of success coming from rooting softwood or semi-ripe stem cuttings.
Air layering is another good option, and hibiscus can be started from seed, although hybrid seed stock typically doesn’t grow true to the parent plant.
But we’re covering all three methods here, so you can choose the best option for your garden!
Are you ready for a sea of fabulous, brightly-colored flowers? Then let’s have a look at how to propagate hibiscus shrubs.
Here’s a peek at what’s ahead:
Three Ways to Propagate Hibiscus
Before we delve into the different propagation methods, let’s have a quick look at the types of hibiscus varieties commonly grown in home gardens.
The methods of propagation are the same for all types, but how you care for the new hibiscus plants afterwards is decidedly different – so it’s helpful to know what you’ll be adding to your garden.
Hibiscus is a large genus of flowering shrubs, and the three main garden varieties are:
H. rosa-sinensis, or tropical hibiscus, needs a frost-free environment in Zones 9 to 11 to grow outdoors year-round.
Tropical hibiscus plants feature four- to six-inch flowers in colors of orange, red, pink, and yellow, and are often sold as houseplants.
In temperate regions H. rosa-sinensis can be moved outdoors for summer, but they need to be returned to a warm, indoor environment once outdoor temperatures drop to 50°F.
H. moscheutos and H. coccineus are the hardy or perennial hibiscus types, and both these species are commonly referred to as rose mallow.
Rose mallows are North American natives and they produce extra large, six- to nine-inch blooms in shades of mauve, pink, red, and white that often feature a contrasting eye.
H. moscheutos is cold hardy in USDA Zones 5 to 9 but most hybrids are suitable for cultivation as far north as Zone 4. H. coccineus and its hybrids are hardy in Zones 6 to 9.
H. syriacus is commonly known as althea or rose of Sharon. The plants produce two- to three-inch flowers in shades of blue, pink, purple, and white. They develop into large landscape shrubs and are hardy in Zones 5 to 9.
And if you’re looking for some inspired selections, be sure to check out our guide to 37 of the best hibiscus varieties.
Now let’s dive into the three ways to propagate hibiscus plants.
1. Stem Cuttings
Propagation via stem cuttings produces reliable results for all three types of hibiscus, although tropical varieties can be a bit reluctant and may take longer to produce roots than the other types.
When taking cuttings from your hibiscus it’s always a smart idea to take a few more cuttings than you actually need.
Stem cuttings are a reliable propagation method and they typically have good rooting success, but it’s not always 100 percent.
While it’s possible to start stem cuttings in water, the roots tend to be thinner, weaker, and more easily damaged when transplanting than those rooted in potting medium.
Overall, I find that hibiscus plants grown from cuttings rooted in soil are more vigorous and heartier.
The best time to take stem cuttings is when the plant is actively putting out new growth, which is in spring to early summer.
New growth is easily identified because the tips are bright green while older wood is brown.
You can wait until late summer to take cuttings, but by then the stems have a semi-ripe to ripe texture and they’ll take longer to root, which leaves them more susceptible to winter cold when planted out.
Here are the steps:
Start by preparing four- to six-inch pots filled with a commercial starter mix, or you can make your own by blending one part sand or perlite with one part compost and one part coconut coir.
Add enough water so the soil is damp but not wet.
Head out to the garden and take four- to six-inch cuttings from your hibiscus plant, using clean, sharp shears to snip the stems at a 45-degree angle just below the third or fourth set of leaves.
Strip the lower leaves from the stem and pinch out the tip, removing any leaf or flower buds – this helps divert energy away from new growth and into root development.
Wound the bark above the cut for one inch by gently scraping away strips of the protective outer layer with clean sharp shears.
Wounding the bark in this manner exposes the stem’s cambium layer. The cambium layer contains cells for both bark and sapwood growth and given the right conditions they’ll grow into roots.
If desired, dip the cut end and wounded area into rooting hormone powder, which you can purchase from Arbico Organics.
Bonide Bontone II Rooting Powder
Tap the cutting gently to remove excess powder then insert stems into prepared four- or six-inch pots, inserting two to four stems per pot.
Gently firm the soil around the stems to provide support so they can stay upright, but don’t compact or compress the potting medium.
Place your pots inside a clear plastic storage tote with a lid to retain heat and moisture. Don’t close the lid tight, instead place it on an angle so that two opposite corners are slightly open, providing air movement.
Alternatively you can cover your pots with a cloche or plastic bag, but don’t let the bag touch the foliage. Use chopsticks or popsicle sticks to prop it into a tent.
Place your pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light, and avoid direct sun. The ideal temperature for rooting is between 75 and 80°F.
If condensation forms, remove the lid, cloche, or bag, to vent the mini greenhouse environment – cuttings like warm temperatures, but you don’t want them to overheat.
The stems need consistent moisture to form roots and the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Mist daily to keep it moist.
Roots should develop in four to five weeks. You can tug the tip gently to feel if there is any light resistance, if so, this is a sign that rooting has taken place.
Wait another month, then transplant each successful cutting into individual pots. New foliar growth may also be evident at this time.
At least six weeks before your first frost date or the following spring, you can transplant your new hibiscus plants out into the garden.
2. Air Layering
Air layering is another method that produces good results and is typically used to propagate the tropical hibiscus varieties, which are a bit harder to root from stem cuttings.
Air layering is the process of encouraging root development on a section of stem while the stem is still attached to the parent plant. When the layer has rooted, it’s detached from the stem of the parent plant and transplanted or potted up on its own.
For the best rooting, start air layering in spring, choosing stems from last year’s growth, those about the same diameter of a pencil are the optimal size.
Select a section of stem that’s six to 12 inches down from the tip and just below a leaf node. Remove the leaves three or four inches above and below the chosen section.
Use a sharp blade or box cutter to carefully make a one-inch slash at the section you have chosen.
Cut lengthwise and hold the blade diagonally to make an angled cut – this helps to expose the cambium layer.
Make two cuts, one of the top and one on the bottom of each stem. Note that you are not cutting the stem away from the plant, you are slicing into the cambium layer.
Wrap the wound with a handful of moist sphagnum moss, taking care to cover the cuts completely.
Wrap the moss entirely in black plastic – none should be poking out the ends – and secure each end with garden velcro or twist ties. Make the closures tight to help retain moisture.
Avoid using clear plastic, which can cause sun scorch – or you can use aluminum foil to wrap the moss as well.
Every few weeks, undo the dressing’s top end and test the sphagnum’s moisture. It needs to stay moist for successful rooting, so add water as needed.
Roots start to develop at around six weeks.
Leave the layers for another four to 12 weeks, then sever the layered stem from the parent, cutting it just below the root ball and below a set of leaf nodes.
Unwrap the covering gently then plant out into the garden at least six weeks before your first frost date or pot up into individual containers.
Learn how to grow hibiscus in containers in our guide.
3. From Seed
All types of hibiscus can be propagated from seeds, but it should be noted that seed collected from hybrids typically don’t grow true to the parent and may not look the same.
Start seeds 10 to 14 weeks before your average last frost date.
Begin by soaking them for eight hours or overnight in room temperature water.
Fill flats or trays with a sterile starting mix, watering lightly until the soil is moist, but not wet. Drain the seeds then sow the seeds a quarter of an inch deep.
Place the flats in a warm location, 70 to 75°F is ideal, with bright light, like a sunny windowsill or under grow lights.
Maintain even soil moisture for the best germination.
Germination takes two to four weeks, and once the seedlings have two sets of leaves they can be transplanted into small individual pots.
After all danger of frost has passed, harden off seedlings for at least one week before transplanting into the garden or potting up into larger containers.
Stunning, Showy Plants
Propagating any type of hibiscus is an easy way to quickly multiply your stock of stunning, showy plants!
For the fastest rooting, take stem cuttings in spring or early summer while the tips are still green.
Air layering is another reliable propagation method but it’s important to keep the dressing moist for rooting to occur.
Seeds need to be started indoors several weeks before the last frost date but remember that hybrid seed doesn’t reproduce true to the parent plant.
How do you folks reproduce woody shrubs like hibiscus? Tell us about it in the comments section below.
And for more hibiscus know-how, add these guides to your reading list next:
